Sandarach is born on an island of the Red Sea called Topazos, of cinnabar color and sulphurous odor. It is found in gold and silver mines, the better the more ruddy and the more it smells of poison (virus); although white-lead (cerussa) too, if it is roasted in a furnace, makes sandarach, whence too the color is flame-like. But if it is roasted with an equal part of ruddle mixed in, it yields sandyx. Arsenic (arsenicum), which the Latins call orpiment (auripigmentum) on account of the color of gold, is gathered in Pontus from the gold-bearing material, where also sandarach is. The best is that which passes into a golden color, pure and easily split, with a slender running of veins; but that which is paler or similar to sandarach is judged worse: there is also a third kind, scaly, with which a golden color is mingled.
Their power is like that of sandarach, but sharper. Ochre (ochra) too is itself born on an island of the Red Sea, Topazos, where sandarach also is. Ochre is also made from ruddle burnt in new pots smeared round with clay, which the more it burns in the kiln, the better it becomes. Venetum (blue). Azure (caeruleum) Alexandria first discovered how to temper. In Italy they make the same from the dust of sand and the flower of nitre. But you will add Cyprian, burnt in a furnace, to this mixture; there will be a likeness of the Vestorian kind. Purpurissum is from silver-chalk. It is dyed together with the purples and drinks in that color into wools more quickly. Yet the chief is another kind, which, while still in the vessel, is steeped in the crude drugs: next is that which, when it has been drawn off and chalk added into the same broth, is diminished in goodness however often this is done.
The cause of the most precious purple is that it is dyed especially with hysginum and with madder (rubea). Indigo (indicum) is found in Indian reeds, a foam adhering to the slime: and it is of a cyan color, rendering a wonderful mixture of purple and azure. There is another kind in the workshops of the purple-dyers, a foam floating on the bronze cauldrons, which the dyers, drawing it off, dry. Black ink (atramentum) is so called because it is black (atrum), a kind whose species is necessary both for painting and for daily use; this is among the artificial ones. For it is made from soot in several ways, resin being added over burning pine-torches, built up in a little basin which retains the smoke. To this painters mix glue with water so that it may shine forth the more brilliantly.
For haste in the work, coals of old vine-shoots ground with glue, when applied to walls, render the appearance of black ink. There are also those who boil down the dried lees of wine, and affirm that, if the lees be from good wine, this ink gives the appearance of Indian pigment (indigo). But also the shoot of a black grape, dipped in the best wine, after they have dried through dryness, if you burn and grind them with glue added, will render the sheen of indigo. Usta (burnt sienna), which is very necessary, comes forth with no trouble. For if you also roast a lump of good flint in fire, and, having overspread it with the sharpest vinegar, extinguish it, a moistened sponge will render a purple color. When you have ground it, it will be 'usta.' But all black ink is perfected by the sun:
all colors are corrupted by the admixture of lime. Melinum is so called because one of the Cyclades, an island named Melos, is productive of that mineral. For it is white, nor do painters use it, on account of its excessive greasiness. What they call 'anulare' is white, with which the highlights of feminine pictures are illuminated. This too is made from chalk with glassy gems mixed in. White-lead (cerussa) is made in this way: in a vessel filled with the sharpest vinegar you will place Aminean vine-shoots in the same little vessel, and over the shoots you will put the thinnest sheets of lead; then you close the vessel most carefully and smear it over, lest any breath of air escape. After thirty days the vessel is opened, and from the distillation of the sheets the white-lead that has grown upon them is found.
That which has been taken off and dried is ground, and again, with vinegar mixed in, it is divided into little tablets and dried in the sun. By this procedure, if you set bronze plates over vine-twigs, they produce verdigris. Chalcanthum (blue vitriol). XVIII. ON THE INSTRUMENTS OF BUILDINGS. The construction of walls ought to be made to the square and to answer to the plumb-line. The 'norma' (square) is so named by a Greek word, and outside of it nothing can be made straight. It is composed of three rules, such that two are of two feet each, while the third has two feet and ten inches; these, polished to an equal thickness, it joins to one another at their outer tips so that they form the figure of a triangle. This is the square. The 'regula' (rule) is so called because it is straight, as if a 'rectula' (little straight thing), and has no obstruction.
The plumb-line ('perpendiculum') is that which is always hung down. In short, in a building, unless everything is made to the plumb-line and to a sure rule, of necessity all things will be built faultily: so that some parts are crooked, some leaning, several sloping forward, others sloping back; and on this account the whole structure is put together. The 'linea' (line, cord) is named from its own kind, because it is made from flax ('linum'). The 'trulla' (trowel) got its name from the fact that it thrusts and thrusts away, that is, it encloses stones with lime or mud. The 'martellus' (hammer). The 'machina' (machine, crane). 'Scalae' (ladders, stairs) are named from 'scandere', that is, from climbing up; for they cling to walls. And they are called 'scalae', whether there be one or several, because the word is only of the plural number, like 'litterae' which signifies a letter (epistle). XIX. ON WOODWORKERS. The 'lignarius' is generally called the craftsman of wood.
'Carpentarius' (cartwright) is a specific name, for he makes only the cart ('carpentum'), just as 'navicularius' (shipwright) is so called because he is the builder and craftsman only of ships. The 'sarcitector' (joiner, framer) is so named because from many boards joined together this way and that he patches ('sarciat') one body of a roof. He is also the 'tignarius', because he covers the roof-work with timbers. 'Lignum' (wood) is named by a Greek etymology, because when kindled it is turned into light and into flame. Whence too it is called 'lychnium', because it gives light. From this, 'materia' (timber, material) is the name of all wood from which something is made; or if you refer it to a door or to a statue, it will be 'material'. For material is always to be taken in relation to something else, just as we say that the elements are the material of things, because we see that from them the things that exist are made; and 'materia' is so called as it were 'mater' (mother).
'Trabes' (beams) are so named because, placed crosswise, they hold together both walls. But 'tigna' are one thing, 'trabes' another. For 'tigna' joined together make a beam. And they are 'trabes' when they have been hewn. The 'tholus' (roof-boss) properly is like a small shield, which is in the middle of the roof, where the beams come together. 'Coplae' (couplings, ties) are so named because they couple together things that strive against one another. 'Struggling' ('luctantes'), because, set upright, they mutually hold one another in the manner of wrestlers. 'Agrantes'. 'Asseres' (rafters, laths) are named from 'as' (a unit), because they are set singly and not joined. 'Scindulae' (shingles), because they are split ('scindantur'), that is, divided. 'Epigri' and 'clavi' are nails, by which wood is fastened to wood. And they are called 'clavi' (nails), as if 'calibi', because they are made of steel ('calibs'), that is, of iron; for 'chalybs' is iron. Boards ('tabulae') were by the ancients called 'tagulae', namely from covering ('tegere');
whence too 'tegulae' (tiles). 'Commissura' (a joint) is the name for the joining of boards. 'Sectio' (cutting) is named from following ('sequendo') that which it has begun; for 'secare' (to cut), 'sectare', and 'sequi' (to follow) are the same. The 'serra' (saw) takes its name from its sound, that is, from its grating noise. The use of the saw and the compass was invented by a certain youth named Perdix, whom, as a boy, Daedalus, his mother's brother, had received to be thoroughly taught in the arts. So great was the ability of this boy that, when he was seeking a short way of dividing timber, imitating the spine of a fish, he sharpened a strip of iron and armed it with the biting of teeth, which craftsmen call a saw.
On account of the invention of this craft, his master Daedalus, moved by the venom of envy, cast the boy headlong from the citadel; then, going into exile, he departed to Crete and stayed there for some time, as the fables relate. From Crete he flew on wings and came into Cilicia. The 'circinus' (compass) is so called because by turning it makes a circle. Its form is made by a doubled line, which had been single when extended along its breadth. And the point in the middle of the compass is called by the Greeks the 'center'; toward its middle all things converge. The 'securis' (axe) is so named because with it trees are cut down ('succidantur'), as if 'succuris'. Again, 'securis' as if 'semicuris' (half-axe); for it is sharp on one side, and made for digging on the other. This among the ancients was called 'penna'; but having an edge on both sides, it is the 'bipennis' (double axe).
For it is called 'bipennis' because on each side it has a sharp edge, as if two wings ('pinnae'). The ancients called anything sharp 'pennum'; whence too the wings ('pinnae') of birds, because they are sharp. And behold a word that has preserved antiquity; for the ancients said 'pennae', not 'pinnae'. This is also the 'dolabra' (mattock), because it has two lips ('labra'); for the 'securis' is single. The 'dextralis' (hatchet) is suited to the right hand ('dextera'). The 'ascia' (adze) is named from the chips ('astulae') which it removes from the wood; its diminutive is 'asciola'. It has a short handle, and on the opposite side it presents either a plain hammer, or a hollowed one, or a two-horned mattock. The 'scalprus' (chisel) is so named because it is fit for carvings ('scalpturae') and borings, as if 'scalforus'. Its diminutive is 'scalpellus' (scalpel).
The 'terebra' (auger, borer) is named from the wood-worm, which is called 'terebra', and which the Greeks call 'teredon'. Hence the auger is called 'terebra' because, like the worm, it bores by rubbing ('terendo'), as if 'terefora'; or as if 'transforans' (boring through). The 'taratrum' (drill), as if 'teratrum'. The 'scobina' (rasp) is so named because by catching it makes filings ('scobs'). The 'cantherius'. The 'guvia' (gouge). XX. ON THE INVENTION OF WOOL-WORKING. The Gentiles extol a certain Minerva for her many talents. For they hold that she first showed the use of wool-working, and that she also set up the loom and dyed wool. They say too that she was the inventress of the olive and of the smith's craft, and the discoverer of many arts; and therefore craftsmen commonly make supplication to her. But this is a poetic invention;
for Minerva is not the originator of those arts, but because wisdom is said to reside in the head of a human being, and Minerva is feigned to have been born from the head of Jupiter, that is, native intelligence; and therefore the understanding of the wise, which discovers all things, is in the head. For this reason too Minerva is called the goddess of the arts, because nothing is more excellent than intelligence, by which all things are governed. XXI. ON THE PRIESTLY VESTMENT IN THE LAW. There are in the Law eight kinds of priestly garments. The 'poderis' is the priestly linen robe, close-fitting to the body and descending as far as the feet; whence too it is named; which the common people call the 'camisia' (shirt, alb). The 'abanet' (girdle) is the priestly girdle, round, woven with damask-work from scarlet, purple, and hyacinth, in such a way that flowers and gems seemed to be set distinct within it.
The 'pilleum' (cap) is of fine linen, round like a half-sphere, covering the priestly head and bound at the back of the head with a fillet. This the Greeks and our own people call the 'tiara' or 'galerus'. The 'mahil', which is the ankle-length tunic, wholly of hyacinth, having at its feet seventy-two little bells, and as many pomegranates set between them and hanging down. The 'ephod', which in Latin is rendered 'over-garment'; for it was a mantle worn over the shoulders, woven of four colors and gold, having on each shoulder two emerald stones enclosed in gold, on which were engraved the names of the patriarchs.
The 'logium', which in Latin is called the 'rationale' (breastplate of judgment), a doubled cloth, of gold and four woven colors, having the size of a palm foursquare, into which were interwoven twelve most precious stones. This cloth was fastened to the shoulder-garment over against the breast of the high priest. The 'petalum' is a golden plate on the forehead of the high priest, which had inscribed the name of God, the Tetragrammaton, in Hebrew letters. The 'batin' or breeches, that is, linen drawers reaching down to the knees, by which the private parts of the priest were veiled. XXII. ON THE VARIETY AND NAMES OF GARMENTS. The variety of garments: 'tegmen' (covering), 'tegumen', 'indumentum' (clothing), 'vestimentum' (garment), and the rest. 'Tegmen' is so named because it covers ('tegat') the limbs; just as 'tegumen' covers roofs ('tecta'), which cover bodies.
But the 'vestimentum' (garment) is that which extends as far as the sole ('vestigium') of the foot, as if 'vestigimentum', such as the ankle-length tunic. But the usage of authors' speech confounds even this. The 'indumentum' is what is put on inside, close to the body, as if 'intumentum'. The 'amictus' (cloak). And clothing ('vestitus') is distinguished from 'cultus' (adornment, style), since 'cultus' is understood more broadly. Likewise 'cultus' differs from 'habitus' (attire, condition); for 'habitus' pertains to nature, 'cultus' to human beings. But most garments are named either from the season in which they are chiefly in use, or from the places where they were either first made or chiefly sold, or from a kind of color, or from the name of their inventors. The most ancient garment of humankind was the 'perizomatum' (loincloth), that is, an undergirding, by which only the genitals are covered.
This the first mortals first made for themselves from the leaves of trees, since after the transgression, blushing, they veiled their shameful parts. The use of it certain barbarous peoples, though they be naked, keep even to this day. These are also called 'campestria', because with them the young men who exercise naked in the field ('campus') cover their private parts. The tunic ('tonica') is called the most ancient garment because in the movement of one walking it makes a sound; for 'tonus' is sound. But the first were the skin tunics with which Adam and Eve, after the offense and their expulsion from Paradise, were clothed. The ankle-length tunic ('talaris') is so called because it descends as far as the ankles ('tali') and flows down to the feet; just as the 'pectoralis', because among the ancients it was short so as to cover only the breast ('pectus'), although now it is more ample.
The 'manicleata' tunic, that is, the sleeved one ('manicata'), so called because it has sleeves ('manicae'): which the Greeks call 'cheiroduten'. The 'dalmatica' garment was first woven in Dalmatia, a province of Greece, a priestly tunic, white, with stripes of purple. The 'russata' (red one), which the Greeks call 'phoenicea' and we 'coccina' (scarlet), was devised by the Lacedaemonians to hide, by the likeness of its color, the blood whenever anyone was wounded in battle-line, lest the enemy's spirit be heightened at the sight. This the Roman soldiers used under the consuls; whence they were also called 'russati'. It was also customary, on the day before a battle was to be fought, to set it out before the headquarters, as a warning and token of the coming fight. The 'laculata' is that which has certain square lakes ('lacus') woven in with a picture, or added with a needle.
The 'hyacinthina' (hyacinth-colored) garment shines with a sky-blue color. The 'molochinia', which is made from the thread of mallows ('malvae'); which some call 'molocina', others 'malvella'. The 'bombycina' from the silkworm ('bombyx'), a little worm that generates very long threads from itself, whose weaving is called 'bombycinum'; and it is made on the island of Cos. The 'apocalama'. The 'serica' (silk) is named from 'sericum' (silk), or because the Seres (Chinese) first sent it. The 'holoserica' is all silk; for 'holon' means whole. The 'tramoserica' has a linen warp and a weft of silk. The 'holoporphyra' is all of purple; for 'holon' means whole. The 'byssina' is white, made from a certain kind of coarser flax. There are those who also think that 'byssus' is a certain kind of flax. The 'fibrina' (having a weft of beaver's fur). The 'caprina' (of goat's hair). The 'masticina' and 'mena'. The 'linea', because it is made of flax ('linum') alone.
The 'linostema' is a garment woven from wool and flax: and it is called 'linostema' because it has flax ('linum') in the warp ('stamen') and wool in the weft. That garment is called 'recta' (upright) which they weave standing and working upward. The 'segmentata' is adorned with certain bands and, as it were, with cut pieces; for they call little parts cut off from any material 'praesegmina'. The 'levidensis' is that which is of thin thread and lightly ('leviter') woven. The 'pavitensis' is called the opposite of the 'levidensis', because it is heavily pressed and beaten down. The 'citrosa' is, as it were, wavy in the likeness of citron-wood. Naevius (Punic War 10): 'the fair one, [in] both gold and a citron-wavy garment.' The 'velenensis' is a tunic that is brought from the islands. The 'exotica' is a foreign garment coming from abroad, as in Spain from the Greeks. The 'polymita' is many-colored;
for a 'polymitus' weave is of many colors. The 'acupicta' garment is woven with a needle ('acu') or adorned with a needle. This is also 'Phrygia' (Phrygian); for those skilled in this art are all called Phrygians, or because it was invented in Phrygia; whence too the craftsmen who make it are called 'Phrygiones'. Virgil (Aeneid 3.484): 'a Phrygian chlamys.' The 'trilicis' (triple-thread) is from three threads ('licia'), because there is also the single and the double-thread. The 'ralla', which the common people call 'rasilis' (thin, worn smooth). That garment is called 'interpola' which, being old, is restored to a new appearance. The 'pannucia' is so named because it is sewn together from various patches ('panni'). The 'colobium' is so called because it is long and without sleeves, for the ancients used this more. The 'levitonarium' is a linen colobium without sleeves, such as the Egyptian monks use.
The 'lumbare' is so called because it is bound to the loins ('lumbi'), or because it clings to the loins. This in Egypt and Syria not only women but also men use. Whence too Jeremiah carried his loincloth across the Euphrates, and there hid it in the cleft of a rock, and afterward found it torn. This by some is also called 'renale', because it is tied about the kidneys ('renes'). The 'limus' is a garment which is drawn out from the navel down to the feet. And this garment has at its lower edge a purple border ('lima'), that is, a flowing one; whence too it took its name, for we call anything slanting 'limum'. The 'licinum' is so named because its weave is bound together as a whole; as if one should say 'liginum', the letter C being changed for G. The 'armilausa' is commonly so called because it is divided and open both front and back, closed only over the shoulders ('armi');
as if 'armiclausa', the letter C being dropped. 'Camisiae' (shirts) are so called because in them we sleep in our 'cami', that is, in our beds ('strata'). 'Femoralia' (thigh-coverings) are so named because they cover the thighs ('femora'). These are also the 'bracae' (breeches), because they are short and the shameful parts of the body are veiled by them. 'Tubruci' are so called because they cover the shins ('tibiae') and breeches. The 'tibraci', because they reach from the breeches ('bracae') down to the shins ('tibiae'). XXIII. ON THE ATTIRE PROPER TO CERTAIN PEOPLES. Certain nations have each their own proper garment, as the Parthians the 'sarabarae', the Gauls the 'linnae', the Germans the 'renones', the Spaniards the 'stringes', the Sardinians the 'mastrucae'. The 'sarabarae' are loose and billowing garments, of which we read in Daniel (3.94): 'And their trousers were not changed.' And Publilius (19):
'Why then have the Parthians hung sarabarae on your belly?' Among some, however, 'sarabarae' are the name for certain head-coverings, such as we see painted on the heads of the Magi. The 'linnae' are square and soft cloaks. Of these Plautus (frag. 176): 'He is covered with a linna from the Gallic weaving-shop.' The 'renones' are coverings of the shoulders and breast down to the navel, and so bristling with twisted shaggy tufts that they repel rain. These the common people call 'reptos', because the length of the tufts, as it were, creeps ('reptat'). Of these Sallust (Histories 3.104): 'The Germans cover their body, uncovered, with renones.' They are called 'renones' from the Rhine ('Renus'), a river of Germany, where they frequently use them. The 'mastruca' is a Germanic garment made from the little skins of wild beasts. Of it Cicero, in his defense of Scaurus (45):
'The man whom the royal purple did not move, did the mastruca of the Sardinians change him?' The 'mastruca' is, as it were, 'monstruosa' (monstrous), because those who put it on are, as it were, transformed into the appearance of wild beasts. Peoples are also distinguished, thus discordant in attire as in tongue. The Persians cover their arms and legs with garments, their head with the tiara; the Alans stand out with their pointed peaks; the Scots bristle, ill-covered, with their barking tongues; the Alemanni are cloaked in sagum, the Indians in linen, the Persians studded with gems, the Seres clad in silk, the Armenians armed with quivers. Several peoples too claim for themselves certain marks proper to them, not only in their garments but also on their bodies: as we see the locks of the Germans, the braids and red dye ('cinnabar') of the Goths, the tattoos ('stigmata') of the Britons.
The Jews also circumcise their foreskins, the Arabs pierce their ears, the Getae go blond with uncovered heads, the Albanians gleam with whitening hair. Foul night holds the bodies of the Moors, a fair skin the Gauls; without horses the Alans stand idle; nor is the nation of the Picts absent, whose name is from the body, because a craftsman, with tiny prickings of a needle and the pressed-out juice of native grass, plays upon it, so that they carry these scars to their own mark, a mottled nobility with painted limbs. The sex too has its established fashion of dress; as in men the hair is cut, in women the abundance of tresses, which is especially a distinction of virgins; whose very adornment is properly such that, heaped up upon the crown, it covers with the compass of the tresses the very summit of the head. XXIV. ON THE MANTLES OF MEN.
The 'pallium' (mantle) is that with which the shoulders of those who serve are covered, so that, while they serve, they may move about unencumbered. Plautus (frag. 177): 'If you are going to do anything, hang your mantle on your shoulders, and let the swiftness of your feet proceed as much as it is able.' It is called 'pallium' from skins ('pelles'), because formerly the ancients used it over their skin garments, as if 'pellea'; or from 'palla' by derivation. The 'chlamys' is that which is put on from one side, and is not sewn, but fastened with a brooch. Hence too it received its name in Greek. The 'toga' is so called because with its covering it clothes and covers the body ('corpus tegat').
It is a plain mantle, of round and rather flowing form, and with a fold as if overflowing, and coming under the right side it is placed over the left shoulder, the likeness of which we behold in the coverings of statues or pictures; and these statues we call 'togate'. The Romans used the toga in peace, but in time of war the 'paludamenta' (military cloaks). The proper measure of a toga is if it has six ells. The 'toga palmata' (palm-toga) was so called which those merited who brought back palms from the enemy: this was also called the 'toga picta' (embroidered toga), because it had victories woven in with palms. The 'toga candida' (white toga), the same being also whitened with chalk, in which the candidates, that is, those seeking a magistracy, went canvassing, chalk being added so that it might be whiter and more conspicuous.
Cicero, in the oration which he delivered against his competitors, 'On the White Toga', wrote of it. The 'cinctus Gabinus' (Gabine cincture) is when the toga is so put on that the lappet of the toga, which is thrown back behind, is drawn to the breast, in such a way that on each side the drapery hangs from the shoulders, as the priests of the Gentiles did, or as the praetors were girded. The 'trabea' was a kind of toga of purple and scarlet, clothed in which the kings of the Romans went forth in the beginning. Romulus is reported to have first devised this for the distinction of the royal attire. And the 'trabea' is so called because it made a man more blessed ('transbearet') in greater glory, that is, because it made him blessed beyond and thereafter with the ampler dignity of honor. The 'paludamentum' was a distinguished mantle of commanders, marked out with scarlet, purple, and gold.
Of it Sallust (Histories 1.87) says: 'He exchanged the toga for the paludamentum.' It was a war-mantle, so called, as it seems to some, because, clothed in it, the commander made openly ('palam') known that a war was coming. The 'circumtextum' is that which in Greek is called 'kyklas'. Of it Virgil (Aeneid 1.649): 'And a veil bordered round with saffron acanthus.' It is called 'circumtextum' (woven around) because it is a round mantle. The 'diplois' is a Greek name, from the fact that it is a double cloak. Horace (Epistles 1.17.25): 'Against whom endurance veils itself with a double cloth.' It is a military garment, whose use first began on the Gallic campaigns from the enemy's spoil. Of it is that saying to the senate: 'The togas having been laid aside, the Quirites turned to the sagum.' 'Sagum' is a Gallic name:
and 'sagum' is called square because among them it was originally square or fourfold. The 'paenula' is a mantle with long fringes. The 'lacerna' is a fringed mantle which formerly only soldiers used; whence too, in distinguishing the military and the civilian crowd, they called the latter 'togati', the former 'lacernati'. And 'lacernae' are so called as if the heads of the fringes had been cut off, and not so loose as those of the 'paenulae' are. The Spaniards call 'mantum' that which covers only the hands ('manus'); for it is a short cloak. The 'praetexta' is a boy's mantle which noble boys used up to sixteen years of age under the discipline of training; whence too they were called 'praetextati' boys. And it is called 'praetexta' because a broader purple was bordered ('praetexebatur') on it.
The 'casula' (little hut, chasuble) is a hooded garment, so called by diminution from 'casa' (hut), because it covers the whole person like a smaller hut. Hence too 'cuculla' (hood, cowl), as if a smaller cell ('cella'). So too in Greek 'planeta', so called because with straying edges they wander about ('evagantur'). Whence too the planet-stars ('stellae planetae'), that is, the wandering ones, because they run about with the wandering wandering and motion of their own. The 'birrus' draws its name from a Greek word, for they call the 'birrus' 'birrum'. The 'melotes', which is also called 'pera', is a goat-skin hanging from the neck, girded down to the loins: it is a garb properly necessary for the exercise of labor. It was made formerly, as some think, from the little skins of badgers ('meles'); whence too they were called 'melotes'. The fringes ('fimbriae') are so called, the borders of garments, that is, the edges ('fines'), and they draw their name from Greek;
for the Greeks call a boundary 'horon'. XXV. ON THE MANTLES OF WOMEN. The 'regillum' is a queenly cloak worn in preference above others; whence too it is named. The 'peplum' is a matronly mantle marked with purple, whose fringes gleam at their top with a golden warp-thread. The 'palla' is a square mantle of women's dress, drawn down as far as the feet, which has gems fixed on it in order. And 'palla' is named 'apo tou pallein', that is, from the mobility which is about the hem of such a garment; or because, wavy with quivering folds, it curls into ripples. The 'stola' is a matronly covering, which, the head being covered, is passed from the right side over the shoulder to the left shoulder: and the 'stola' is called in Greek because it is thrown over ('superemittatur').
因希臘人稱界限為「horon」。二十五、論女子的披衣。「regillum」是王后勝於其他而優先穿用的斗篷；故亦由此得名。「peplum」是一件以紫色標飾的貴婦披衣，其流蘇的頂端以金色的經線閃耀。「palla」是女子服飾中一件方形的披衣，下垂至腳，其上有寶石按序固定。而「palla」得名於「apo tou pallein」，即取自這種衣下擺周圍的擺動；或因它以顫動的褶皺起伏，捲成漣漪。「stola」是貴婦的罩衣，蒙住頭後，從右側越過肩膀傳至左肩：而「stola」在希臘語中得名，乃因它被披擲於其上（superemittatur）。
The same is also called by the Latin name 'ricinium' because half of it is thrown back behind; which the common people call 'mavors'. And it is called 'mavors' as if 'Mars'; for in it is a sign of marital dignity and power. For the head of the woman is the man; hence too it is upon the head of the woman. The 'amiculum' is the linen mantle of harlots. This among the ancients matrons caught in adultery were made to put on, so that in such a mantle rather than in a 'stola' they might defile their chastity. For among the ancients this was the mark of the harlot's dress, now in Spain of respectability. The 'theristrum' is a small mantle with which even to this day the women of Arabia and Mesopotamia veil themselves, in which they are covered in the heat by a most safe shade. Of it in Isaiah (3.23).
The 'anaboladium' is a linen wrap of women by which the shoulders are covered, which the Greeks or the Latins call 'sindon'. XXVI. ON BEDDING AND THE REMAINING CLOTHS THAT ARE IN USE. The 'stragulum' is a garment of varied color which is patterned by the hand of the craftsman with diverse variety: and it is so called because it is fit both for bedding ('stratus') and for wrapping ('amictus'). Of it Solomon (Proverbs 31.22): 'She made herself a coverlet garment.' Some think 'ludices' are named from the games ('ludi'), that is, from the theaters: for when the young men came out from the brothel of the games, they covered their head and face with the veil of these; because he who has entered a brothel is wont to blush. The 'galnapes'. The 'fulcra' are the ornaments of couches, so called because on them we are supported ('fulcimur'), that is, held up, or because they prop up ('fulciant') the cushions or the head;